ZIMMERMANN AW25

Zimmermann Autumn Winter 2025 Collection. Paris, March, 10th 2025

When I think of Zimmermann, I envision — effortless yet refined—those weightless, flowing fabrics that exude both grace and nonchalance. The Autumn Winter 2025 collection, aptly named Hypnotic, drew inspiration from the enigmatic 1970s Australian film Picnic at Hanging Rock, blending nostalgia with modern elegance. The signature looks were present, but this time, they carried an eerie undertone, a tension between delicacy and depth.

Words by Adam Chan.

The opening look set the mood immediately: a romantic high-neck lace dress with soft peach silk draping and an exaggerated waist sash, cinched just so. The silhouette was quintessentially Zimmermann — fluid, feminine, yet structured enough to feel contemporary. This ensemble established the collection’s colour palette, with soft creams, peaches, and earthy tones recurring throughout the runway.

One of my favourite looks ventured into darker territory — a deep indigo denim ensemble that reimagined Zimmermann’s signature tailoring with an unexpectedly robust elegance. A cropped capelet top with sharp lines paired with a full, sweeping denim skirt created a dramatic contrast between structure and fluidity. The rich texture of the denim, accentuated by bold contrast stitching, imparted a sculptural quality, while a silky scarf knotted at the waist introduced a touch of softness. This look stood out, harmoniously aligning with the collection’s narrative while offering a fresh perspective for the brand.

Throughout the show, subtle tokens from the film appeared in prints, such as maps of the iconic Mt Macedon location and hand-drawn Valentine’s Day cards stitched between layers of flowing chiffon. Pinstripe suits and pinafores nodded to the film’s school uniforms, while woven wool suits and leather trims echoed the search party’s riding attire. Earthy colour palettes, iterations of snake print, and jewellery inspired by bush treasures reflected the majestic Australian landscape depicted in the film.

As the show progressed, an edge emerged. Mongolian shearling, riding boots, and moody midnight blues disrupted the softness, introducing a sense of eeriness as the tension between lightness and darkness intensified. Victorian details, including diamond smocking, crocheted lace, and elongated ruffles, combined with modern denim silhouettes and heavy outerwear in Zimmermann’s signature toughened styling, complete with knee-high braided boots.

By the final looks, the collection had fully descended into its most hypnotic state. The delicate evolved into the substantial, with Victorian smocking and lace bibs giving way to heavy outerwear and voluminous silhouettes. Textures layered upon each other, building toward an almost surreal crescendo — embroidered flowers winding their way up necklines like creeping vines, burn-out paisley shimmering like a fever dream.

Zimmermann has always mastered romance, but this season, it felt haunted in the best way — a dream within a dream — beautiful, unsettling, and impossible to look away from.