Jordan Whittingham wears ‘Overlook’ wind coat in coconut milk by BIANCA SAUNDERS. Jordan appears courtesy of NEVS.
The late Dame Vivienne Westwood famously remarked, “There’s nowhere else like London. Nothing at all, anywhere” — and indeed, London is where gritty realities collide with creative innovation. Here, fashion is not merely an industry but a reflection of the city’s dynamic, ever-evolving spirit that constantly pushes boundaries. Westwood, alongside other “working-class heroes” like Lee Alexander McQueen, perfectly embodied this spirit. Their ability to fuse the raw with the refined echoed the tension and beauty that define London itself, establishing them as some of the most influential designers in recent fashion history. Today, London remains a vital force in global fashion despite the challenges posed by Brexit, which led some designers to relocate to other fashion capitals. London’s resilience lies in its capacity to adapt and reinvent itself, driven by a rich multicultural landscape — a new generation of designers from diverse backgrounds is at the forefront of this transformation, redefining British fashion with fresh, bold perspectives.
Words by Emika Ohta Seger.
Photography by Edwin S Freyer. Styled by Tasha Arguile.
Hair - Hatty, Jordan, Babafemi, Sophia, Sandy and Rajvatan by Philippe Tholimet.
Makeup - Hatty, Jordan, Babafemi, Sophia, Sandy and Rajvatan by Kimie Yashiro using NARS.
Hair - Tori, Elsa, Jaden and Tosan by Lachlan Wignall at Stella Creatives.
Makeup - Tori, Elsa, Jaden and Tosan by Naomi Nakamura. Socials by Boram Lee Freyer.
Stylist assisted by Victoria Zekavica. Photographer's Assisted by Macky Mann.
Special thanks to The Lost Poet and Chateau Denmark.
Sandy Oghenovo wears 10k gold plated and pink enamel earrings by 8000 ATELIER. ‘Choli’ almond top and ‘Choli’ leggings by AHLUWALIA. Light magenta crushed velvet ‘Skye 70’ heels by JIMMY CHOO. Sandy appears courtesy of Tess Management.
Priya Ahluwalia is one such designer. London-born with Indian Nigerian heritage, Ahluwalia focuses on revitalising vintage and surplus clothing through innovative textile and patchwork techniques, resulting in many one-of-a-kind pieces. With sustainability, diversity, and inclusion at the core of her brand, Ahluwalia is "committed to working in ways that benefit both people and the planet,” she explains, “From sourcing materials for collections and photoshoots to collaborating with diverse individuals internally and externally, our decisions are driven by a genuine desire to do what’s right,” Her Autumn Winter 2024 collection draws from the Indian and West African fairy tales of her childhood, reflecting on the universal lessons of community and humility found in these stories, while utilising recycled and organic fabrics. The silhouettes take cues from traditional Indian saris and Nigerian womenswear, enhanced by enigmatic motifs and a rich colour palette of deep greens, blues, and striking fiery hues. Ahluwalia also feels a deep connection between her work and London itself,drawing inspiration from the city’s architecture, nightlife, and unique sense of personal style: “There is a sense of ‘London’ intrinsically peppered throughout my work,” she observes. Rather than finding London’s fashion scene competitive, she describes it as collaborative: “I find the designers here to be really supportive, and we often champion each other.”
Sophia Akosa wears brown nappa shearling ‘Soul’ jacket, spun silk ‘Balance’ shirt, wool and cotton mix ‘Yam’ cord skirt and lamb print ladies jewel sneakers, all by WALES BONNER. Sheer tights by FALKE. Sophia appears courtesy of Hive Management.
British-Jamaican designer Grace Wales Bonner expertly fuses athleticism with refined elegance, drawing deeply from her multicultural heritage to shape her collections. Her work embodies "a distinct notion of cultural luxury," blending European heritage with an Afro-Atlantic spirit. Known for her multidisciplinary approach, supported by rigorous archival research, Bonner's practice extends beyond fashion into art curation. Widely regarded as one of London’s most promising and influential designers, she was appointed a Member of the Order of the British Empire (MBE) in 2022. Her Autumn Winter 2024 collection showcases her at the height of her craft, introducing sophisticated, co-gendered wardrobes with an intellectual, academic sensibility. Inspired by the collegiate world, the collection reimagines school uniforms with soft tailoring, cosy knitwear, and standout pieces like varsity jackets and sweatshirts emblazoned with "HOWARD" — a tribute to Howard University, the historic Black institution in Washington, D.C., celebrated for its intellectual and poetic legacy. Bianca Saunders, another British-Jamaican designer, has garnered acclaim for her innovative take on menswear, blending cultural influences with a modern sensibility. Her designs often challenge traditional gender norms and focus on inclusivity and self-expression. For Autumn Winter 2024, she opts to reveal her first unisex collection, “Nothing Personal,” through a thoughtfully curated lookbook. Drawing inspiration from the 1964 book ‘Nothing Personal’ by photographer Richard Avedon and civil rights activist James Baldwin, Saunders’ collection explores the tension between internal identity and external perception, echoing the book's themes of American identity and cultural contradictions. It is a study in minimalist yet disruptive design, where Saunders’ signature tailoring is reimagined with new twists.
Jordan Whittingham wears hug chain choker by DINOSAUR DESIGNS. ‘Figure’ top and ‘Tucker Barlon’ jeans by BIANCA SAUNDERS. Jordan appears courtesy of NEVS.
Jaden Edwards wears silver hoop earrings by JENNIFER FISHER. Necklaces and secondary earrings, model's own. Black cotton keyhole top and matching skirt by SAUL NASH. Jaden appears courtesy of Present Model Mgmt. Tosan Pierau wears Red ‘Club’ shirt and black wool zip through articulation trousers by SAUL NASH. Black cotton dress socks by THE LONDON SOCK COMPANY. Shoes and jewellery, model's own. Tosan appears courtesy of Elite London.
London’s nightlife and subcultures continue to inspire many designers. Saul Nash, for instance, merges fashion with movement, influenced by his background in performance and dance. His fluid, functional garments allow freedom of movement, exploring themes of identity and cultural expression while challenging traditional notions of masculinity. For his Autumn Winter 2024 collection, Nash skillfully balances innovation, style, and the heritage of London's underground garage clubs, pushing beyond the limits of traditional sportswear while capturing the adrenaline-fueled spirit of the city’s nightlife. Similarly, Sinèad Gorey draws from London’s underground rave scene, with a unique approach to knitwear. Sustainability is central to her designs, with her seamless knitting technique eliminating waste. Her Autumn Winter 2024 collection is an ode to her own British teenage experiences, featuring tartan checks reminiscent of school uniforms and Y2K-coded accessories. Playful and vibrant, the collection includes tops and mini skirts with exaggerated stripe ties, transforming youthful memories into bold, contemporary looks.
Hatty Pellegrino wears pebble loop resin earrings by DINOSAUR DESIGNS. Peplum tartan clash shirt and tartan clash buckle puff skirt by SINEAD GOREY. Terracotta opaque tights by TABIO. Yellow leather ‘Port’ sandals by IZIE. Hatty appears courtesy of Chapter Management.
Rajvatan wears ‘Arjuna’ knitted jacket and ‘Laser’ low rise jean by AHLUWALIA. Black polka dot dress socks by THE LONDON SOCK COMPANY. Soft box black calf leather ‘Prism’ mules by JIMMY CHOO. Rajvatan appears courtesy of SUPA.
While the global spotlight often shines on emerging talents of London, London Fashion Week has grown to offer a balanced space where both rising stars and those who have already made a name for themselves can thrive. Designers like Molly Goddard, who have become increasingly known but are still on the rise globally, benefit from London’s reputation for blending innovation and commercial appeal. Molly Goddard's Autumn Winter 2024 collection embodies her signature aesthetic, featuring layers of tulle, crisp taffeta, and oversized silhouettes while seamlessly integrating diverse inspirations, including Western style codes and the iconic gowns of Sixties Cristóbal Balenciaga, as well as Christian Dior. Emphasising texture and silhouette, she utilises vintage pieces, archived samples, and toiles from previous collections to craft voluminous shapes adorned with ruffles and drawstring ties. Goddard's creative process began with an initial fitting that repurposed old samples and fabric scraps to form innovative new shapes—by “pulling in, pushing out, smushing.” This exploration allowed her to focus on combining textures and manipulating silhouettes, resulting in playful, abstract designs. Comfort remains key in her collections—gowns are “elasticated, rather than corseted, for a modern wearer.”
Tori McLelland wears ‘Rudi’ red tulle top, ‘Kayako’ pink tulle dress and ‘Luna’ leather pumps, all by MOLLY GODDARD.
Jewellery, model's own. Tori appears courtesy of Select Model Management.
SRVC takes a distinctly different approach to empowering silhouettes compared to Molly Goddard. Pronounced "service," the brand designs garments to "serve" the women who wear them. Under the creative direction of Ricky Wesley Harriott, SRVC seamlessly blends sleek, dynamic designs with traditional garment archetypes, championing inclusivity, empowerment, and craftsmanship. With a bold, hyper-futuristic vision of womenswear, the brand prioritises innovation and functionality while celebrating diverse female forms. SRVC encourages self-expression through garments that can be reconstructed and deconstructed for added versatility. The Autumn Winter 2024 collection draws inspiration from London’s daily commute, featuring deconstructed tailoring with cinched waists and strong shoulders, along with repurposed denim and body-hugging knits that radiate confidence and attitude. The collection captures the energy of everyday life, showcasing fashion in motion and highlighting the transformative power of clothing.
Elsa Krier wears crystal embellished top, herringbone flared trousers and ‘Elsa’ eco altermat boots all by STELLA McCARTNEY. Elsa appears courtesy of Supreme London. Sophia Akosa wears Nocturne’ black trench, ‘Upturn’ high neck tee, ‘Mini Chaps’ skirt and lycra ‘Tabi’ stockings all .by SRVC. Large crystal ‘Millenia’ necklace by SWAROVSKI. Black patent leather ‘Ixia 95’ by JIMMY CHOO. Sophia appears courtesy of Select Model Management.
The influence of traditional British tailoring remains strong in contemporary fashion, as seen in Stella McCartney’s Autumn Winter 2024 collection, which offers a fresh take on Savile Row craftsmanship. McCartney reimagines classic suits and jackets with innovative cuts and sustainable materials —weighty herringbone tweeds are embellished with circular lead-free crystal rivets, adding a touch of lightness and glamour. Drawing inspiration from both her personal archives and her mother Linda’s wardrobe, McCartney blends sensual cuts, rich textures, and bold, exaggerated silhouettes, creating a collection that balances heritage with modernity. Described as a "message from Mother Earth," the collection champions sustainability, with 90 per cent of the ready-to-wear pieces crafted from eco-friendly materials. McCartney’s unwavering commitment to sustainability reinforces her status as a trailblazer in responsible fashion and a beacon for other designers to follow.
Babafemi Mustapha wears Merino wool ‘Isle’ jumper by WALES BONNER. Babafemi appears courtesy of SUPA.
Elsa Krier wears large silver hoop earrings by JENNIFER FISHER. White altermat trench coat by STELLA McCARTNEY. Elsa appears courtesy of Supreme London.
In an industry often criticised for its environmental impact and lack of inclusivity, designers like Priya Ahluwalia, Grace Wales Bonner, Bianca Saunders, Saul Nash, Sinèad Gorey, Molly Goddard, Ricky Wesley Harriott of SRVC, and Stella McCartney demonstrate that fashion can be a powerful force for change. The relevance of these designers extends far beyond aesthetics; it lies in their ethical practices, social advocacy, and resilience amid ongoing challenges. Through these visionaries, London remains a city where fashion not only survives but thrives. Each designer contributes to a larger narrative, reflecting the complexities of contemporary life. Their work challenges perceptions, celebrates diverse identities, and paves the way for a more inclusive, sustainable future. As London evolves, its designers will undoubtedly stay at the forefront, shaping what it means to be chic, responsible, and relevant in today's world.
This feature is part of The Britannia & Éire Issue. Purchase your copy here.
Tori McLelland wears silver hoop earrings by JENNIFER FISHER. ‘Natasha’ red and brown knit jumper and ‘Josie’ red and cream dress by MOLLY GODDARD. Rings, model's own. Tori appears courtesy of Select Model Management.
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