“It comes down to looking after things and respecting clothes a little bit more. I always say that clothes are going to outlive us. You can hold on to [them], but if they're well looked after, they'll outlive us.”
Words by Zeynep Kerpisci. Portrait by Gia Jones.
Fiona Stuart, owner of Rellik, has been a key figure in London's vintage fashion scene for over two decades. Her journey began when she moved from Australia to the UK at the age of 15, studying at Central Saint Martins and later pursuing interior design in Kingston. After spending time with a market stall at Portobello Market in the mid-nineties, Fiona opened Rellik in December 1999 with two business partners, establishing a haven for vintage lovers.
Reflecting on how vintage fashion has evolved, Fiona notes that the scene has shifted dramatically since Rellik's early days. Initially, vintage was niche, with Portobello Market offering an eclectic mix of dead stock sportswear, men's vintage, and pieces from distinct decades. "Vintage is, for me, like [approaching] fashion from a new angle. It's not [about being told what] to like – you like it because you like it. You might go into a vintage shop and [find] lots of different things, but one item [speaks to you] while something different appeals to someone else. It's an open-ended way to discover fashion." Fiona explains.
Rellik's origins are rooted in Fiona's early fascination with second-hand shopping. Living next to Portobello Market during the early '90s, she would browse with her pocket money, picking up items without fully grasping or understanding the concept of vintage. Fiona's appreciation for vintage deepened as she transitioned into running a successful business. "It wasn't until I actually started it as a business that I really discovered the beauty and [depth behind] the clothes I was finding. Then you find out the history– it's interesting how certain pieces capture your imagination." A turning point came when she discovered a Pucci shirt — an item she didn't initially understand but grew to love after learning its story. This "rabbit hole" of discovery is what she loves most about vintage — continually uncovering the stories behind each piece.
When asked about her aesthetic inspirations, Fiona is particularly drawn to the era of her own upbringing: the seventies. To her, the decade represents a modern, sexy, and liberating time, especially for women in fashion. She describes how women embraced trouser suits, jumpsuits, and tailored pieces that allowed them to express individuality and strength.
Fiona sources clothes from a variety of places, whether it's from shops down the street, auctions, or even items brought directly into the store by people. She likens the experience to "divining." "It's very hard to explain when you find something you really love, but it comes from your [gut]." One of her most cherished discoveries is a Roberta di Camerino velvet coat she found in a charity shop. Despite owning it for 25 years, she hasn't sold it, demonstrating her emotional connection to the pieces she curates.
As Rellik celebrates its 25th anniversary, Fiona reflects on the milestones and memories that have defined the journey. To mark the occasion, she plans to host a party at the shop, inviting close customers, stylists, and friends. She's also collaborating with select customers to curate special vintage collections.
Looking ahead, Fiona sees a bright future for vintage fashion, driven by sustainability and a growing appreciation for well-made garments. She believes the industry must move away from fast fashion and encourage consumers to invest in quality pieces that stand the test of time. "I think we need to invest a lot more into fashion, stop the cycle of [overbuying and discarding], and question why [we're] making each purchase." Fiona is also excited about the rise of rental fashion, particularly in the vintage space, as it offers another way to respect and preserve clothing for generations to come.
In the coming years, Fiona hopes to expand Rellik's online business, which thrived during COVID-19, and strengthen her relationships with stylists and international customers. She is also considering expanding the physical store to accommodate more of the incredible stock she continues to source. With her passion for vintage still burning bright, Fiona Stuart remains committed to discovering, preserving, and sharing fashion's most timeless pieces with the world.
This Industry Voice is part of The Britannia & Éire Issue. Purchase your copy here.
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