"Thanks to my parents, I developed a profound appreciation for sustained accomplishments—emphasizing the pursuit of repeated successes rather than singular achievements. This mindset has become my driving force, instilling an unyielding determination to succeed with the same vigour as when I first started my brand."
Words by Leigh Maynard. Portrait by Simonas Berukstis.
Fashion images from Pre-Fall 2024 Collection.
A singular vision is essential for navigating fashion's powerful, alluring, yet mutable world. Few understand this as well as Designer David Koma, whose aptitude and perseverance have driven him to create an internationally acclaimed brand. Establishing his eponymous luxury womenswear brand in 2009, Koma built upon a solid foundation laid years earlier with his parents' unwavering support and valuable guidance, fostering his creativity and emphasizing the endurance required in his chosen field. Expanding on these values, Koma earned a place at London's prestigious Central Saint Martins, graduating with an MA in 2009. Today, David Koma is celebrated for his standout sculptural designs, opulent palettes, and a loyal international and high-profile following.
Hailing from the eastern country of Georgia, Koma's heritage fuels his creative imagination. Indeed, his Autumn/Winter 2017 collection was a tribute to his homeland. "It is a beautiful place to grow up, and I certainly benefited from being exposed to its wealth of history and traditions, glorious nature, and the most delicious food! It was within this nurturing environment that my creative journey started, igniting my passion for drawing." Heartened to see such standout creativity among his fellow countrymen, he adds, "It is remarkable to witness the abundance of talented artists who share a common heritage with me. All Georgians are profoundly affectionate of our homeland—that's what I love the most! I admire the sense of liberation and innovation that distinguishes Georgian creatives. I would love to see further emergence of successful fashion houses - we've already seen a positive trend over the past decade!"
With a design philosophy that celebrates not only his homeland but also powerful, influential women, Koma is particularly inspired by females past and present, such as Marine Biologist Dr. Sylvia Earle and iconic female Footballer Lily Parr, who blazed a trail for others in male-dominated fields. He is incredibly grateful to see so many empowered women in his designs today. "I love seeing women wearing my creations; that's definitely a highlight. I've had incredible celebrity support since day one, and it happens so naturally. There seems to be an organic understanding and synergy between me and the famous Koma Girls, so my favourite moments revolve around these iconic women." He highlights Beyoncé, with whom he has maintained a multi-decade relationship that has been pivotal to his reputation as a designer. "She was the first celebrity to endorse my work by wearing my graduate collection to the MTV EMA's in 2009. This moment garnered unprecedented global attention and press coverage for the brand. Subsequently, our collaboration extended to designing outfits for two of her tours, namely The Mrs. Carter Show in 2013 and Renaissance last year, [among] numerous moments in between." Beyoncé's long tenure as a Koma Girl demonstrates the enduring quality of his work and the calibre of artists who wear his designs. "There are many artists [who] truly embody the essence of the Koma Girl, including Rosalia, Willow Smith and FKA Twigs. These women are my forever muses, infusing empowerment into my designs."
Koma is also inspired by the work of some of fashion's most notable names, citing iconic masters like Pierre Cardin, Gianni Versace and Manfred Thierry Mugler, and their enduring impact. "As a designer, one can always take inspiration from those who have stepped before you. Pierre Cardin's pioneering ability to meld minimalist aesthetics with avant-garde vision remains unparalleled." Koma also admires the groundbreaking sensuality that elevated Gianni Versace's brand to unprecedented heights of glamour. "His transformative approach to fashion shows, reimagining them as immersive entertainment experiences, has reshaped industry standards and profoundly [influenced] my own outlook." However, it is possibly Thierry Mugler's designs, with their meticulous approach to construction and innovative materials, that most noticeably capture the designer's imagination. "He [approaches] fashion with a sense of humour—I value that very much. Thierry Mugler's collaboration with Helmut Newton is probably the most inspirational image I have ever seen and is a constant presence on my mood board."
Indeed, in 2013, Koma was appointed Artistic Director at Mugler, a pinnacle moment in his career. During this time, he honed unparalleled multitasking skills managing both the brand and his eponymous label. "Remarkably, growing up, I often told my friends that working for [Mugler] would be my ultimate goal, and seemingly, I manifested that at a remarkably young age. My tenure afforded me unparalleled access to the brand's archive, an experience that proved profoundly inspirational."
Such a significant appointment at a relatively early juncture in Koma's career stands as a testament to his drive and talent. He offers advice to other young designers with similar aspirations, attributing some of his success to the support and mentorship he has received from the British Fashion Council and NewGen throughout his career. However, he stresses that being a designer involves more than just creativity. "Success in our industry demands strong business acumen. If your strengths lie elsewhere, it's crucial to surround yourself with individuals who can offer guidance and assistance. Invest your time in building a team that shares your vision yet isn't afraid to challenge you!"
Koma emphasizes that tenacity remains one of the most essential qualities in a designer's arsenal: "In an environment where trends evolve rapidly, and competition is fierce, perseverance fuels the resilience needed to weather it all without [compromising] creativity." This attitude is poised to propel the designer further on his remarkable and well-deserved trajectory. Perhaps one as meteoric as a particular pair of thigh-high leather boots with metal branded toe caps that have evidently become very popular.
Expanding on his accessories line, Koma is also launching a new handbag collection in stores this year, enthusing, "I can't wait to see the customers' reaction to the styles. Additionally, I am working on a menswear offering within David Koma London and on the brink of unveiling a new direct-to-consumer swimwear brand titled Let's Swim."
The enduring sensibility encouraged by his parents in those early days is most certainly a prominent aspect of David Koma's continuing success as he moves forward positively into the future, reflected in all the Koma Girls who confidently step forward in a pair of those empowering boots.
Discover this piece inside the Georgia Chapter at The Silk Road Issue 12
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