“We are all born with unique gifts, yet it is our choice whether to nurture these gifts, keep them or abandon them. When our gift evolves into a passion, it becomes a part of us.”
Words by Zeynep Kerpisci. Portrait by Felipe Pagani.
Aylin at Wilhelmina Models photographed by Morgan Shaw. Styled by Ashley Conor.
Make-up by Emily Engleman. Hair by Takumi Horiwaki using Windle Lab London.
Turkish-born, London-based fashion designer Bora Aksu presented his Spring Summer 2024 collection at London Fashion Week last September. This collection is inspired by Aksu’s origins and pays homage to his Turkish roots and it showcases the hidden gems of Turkish culture. When designing it, Aksu drew on the strong family ties characteristic of Turkish culture, which can influence a person throughout their entire life. Whereas London is somewhere that, while offering a unique environment for creativity, is also a city where you can be individual, be honest with yourself and express your creativity freely without being subject to trends. Combining Turkish culture with the unlimited possibilities offered by self-expression, Aksu has created a unique and timeless collection. Turkey, which was home to many countries in its time, still carries a part of each culture. Along with this collection, Aksu himself reflects on this sensibility openly.
Aksu’s collection centres around authenticity, family, overcoming tragic events, and restoring joy and hope. The designer places his mother’s craftsmanship and family heritage at the core of the collection, evoking a warmth and conjuring a sense of nostalgia for his audience. This nostalgia for Aksu comes from his childhood memories, “I grew up in Izmir, Turkey, with my close-knit family. At times, the inspirations drawn from my family are more visible in the final design, while on other occasions, it is more hidden. My mum was, and still is, a huge source of inspiration for me. Not only for her resilience as a strong woman who always wanted to stand on her own two feet and pursue a challenging career to create a life for herself, but also for her amazing creativity. I am sure my mum’s fashion sense has implanted something bigger in me. She was always very creative; however, this was mostly hidden behind her role as a doctor. As well as being a devoted mother, she had a strong vision for her personal style. She was never satisfied with the styles that were on offer in the stores, and instead of getting frustrated, she decided to create her own outfits. She taught herself to knit and created amazing skirts and dresses for herself. When I look through our family albums, I can see how [stylish] my mum was. I realized that my earliest fashion ideas were shaped by her. Through observing the way she dresses, I almost wanted to capture that style. Definitely, it does, although sometimes the inspiration sources are more visible in the end design and sometimes more hidden. Whether it’s the past or the present, all my ideas come from what’s going on around me: from friends, culture, memories and movies. I think my first initial fashion ideas came from the people around me. My family, my mum, through observing their attitudes, the way they dress, I wanted to almost capture it.”
The Turkish traditions of his childhood are still a huge inspiration for Aksu’s designs; in remembering those traditions, he mentions that he still uses them as well. “During my upbringing in Turkey, it was customary that in every household, there would be someone with exceptional handcraft skills, whether it [was] crochet, needlework, knitting or weaving. When I was growing up, I was immersed in all these crafts. As their hobby, my auntie and grandma created these amazing hand crochets and laces, these had elements of our cultural heritage. In the past, for example, I spent three months travelling through various villages and towns in the Aegean region. This trip allowed me to get to know the Turkish culture in a way that I had never experienced before.”
By allowing his family to inspire him creatively, Aksu benefits from Turkey’s rich culture while at the same time returning to his childhood and conducting extensive research for the collection. As Aksu rediscovered the elements of himself that growing up with women gave to him, he puts the inspiration he gets from them at the centre of his collection and designs clothes that serve as a historical map. This collection symbolizes elements such as innovation, heritage, home and pride. “As a young child, I created a world for myself through drawing. Even before grasping the concept of fashion, I found myself sketching female figures and their outfits. My primary muses were my mum and my auntie; the majority of my childhood drawings represent their fashion sense, their clothes, hairstyles, and even their choice of footwear. I believe my first initial fashion ideas came from the people around me. My family, particularly my mum, served as my initial source of inspiration through observing their attitudes and the way they dressed. This obviously had the elements of cultural heritage. My recent collection pays homage to my Turkish roots, reflecting on the authenticity of my childhood memories. I drew inspiration from my upbringing, interweaving familial and hometown memories into a tapestry of craft, nature and warmth. In my pursuit of fresh perspectives and cultural influencers, I embarked on a trip to Istanbul for my latest collection.”
Blending these inspirations, the collection features improved versions of embroidered dresses, layered skirts and cropped jackets. Aksu incorporates lace, ruffles, embellishments, and crochet-on suits, along with lace-looking pantyhose, to create a perspective by adding his own experiences to his vision. He also draws inspiration from the Ottoman Empire, as seen in hand-knitted Fez-style hats, reminiscent of the power held by the Empire in the past, now symbolizing strong women. In combining dresses and skirts with crocheted and Turkish motifs, the designer creates a romantic contrast in the addition of lace to the hem of masculine-cut blazers. Fashion serves as a universal language to communicate with others, and within this collection, Bora Aksu conveys a collective feeling of belonging. As he explains, “The manner in which a designer incorporates their culture into their designs holds great significance. I particularly love brands that embrace the cultural heritage while crafting refined and contemporary pieces. [The brand] Kutnia exemplifies this approach by revitalizing a fabric called Kutnu, which has a 500-year history; they managed to create effortless luxurious designs. It is all about creating bridges between heritage and the future, it is truly commendable.”
The culture we are born into is the most important element that shapes us and is present in every step we take. Aksu preserves his brand’s initial core by allowing everyone to find a piece of themselves. He understands the value of experiences he had along the way, and in combining them with his own identity, he expresses his close relationship with Turkish culture, “Growing up in Turkey, surrounded by such historical and cultural richness undeniably influenced my design language. This cultural wealth feels almost ingrained, like a genetic inheritance that you carry wherever you go. In some ways, it was a natural way for me to turn back to my roots and draw inspiration from elements of my childhood. However, on the other hand, creating a modern approach and blending it with my own cultural approach was the challenge. For me, design is an ongoing journey rather than an end result. Even the collections do not have clear starting or ending points; the process is organic. Ideas evolve, sometimes they fade away, and sometimes they intertwine. So, for me, it is very hard to see the design process as an end product. The hand-crafted techniques rooted in Turkish culture have always inspired my work.”
While talking about his collection and his own journey, he points out the importance of identity for designers. “Everyone has a different path ahead of them. I moved to London at a young age to study Fashion at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design, completing both my BA and MA there. My time as CSM felt like a pivotal period for me to express my design identity and find my true self. Under the guidance of Louise Wilson I had the realization [about the importance of] staying true to myself. The biggest piece of advice I can give is knowing the fact that fashion design is a lifelong commitment ingrained in the designer’s essence. Knowing and understanding the necessity of loving what you do, otherwise burnout becomes inevitable. I always think being able to do what I love is the ultimate achievement.”
Aksu is certain that Turkey’s future and heritage are safe with the next generation. “I firmly believe that Turkey is nurturing a very brave and exceptionally talented new generation. Their ability to gracefully incorporate Turkish heritage into their work without being too obvious fills me with pride. I have great confidence that these gifted young individuals will shape the future of Turkey.”
Discover this piece inside the Türkiye Chapter at The Silk Road Issue 12
Purchase your copy here.
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