A vow to stay, not for what is seen but for what is felt. A blend of scenery, drumming hearts and contrasting emotions. This is where I learn the most about love. Beirut, Lebanon.
Video and words by Yara Lahoud.
Like an artist immersed in creation, witnessing its birth, its transformation, its shedding, its unfinished beauty. All of it. This city hums history; it hums passion amidst its orchestrated chaos. I extend my hand out the car window, feeling the resistance of the wind as I play with the warm sunlight. On this hot summer Friday, Beirut is preparing itself to welcome a bustling, intense weekend.
Church bells and the mosque’s adhan intertwine, creating a harmonious blend of faiths in a city where tradition and modernity coexist. As the sun begins to pierce through, it illuminates the magnificent Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque, a majestic symbol of Lebanon's spiritual heritage. The grandeur of its Ottoman-inspired architecture, adorned with intricate mosaics and towering minarets, is breathtaking.
I cannot help but admire the mosque’s beauty every time I am there. Interestingly enough, right next to the mosque is the St. George Maronite Cathedral. Places remember emotions, and peace dwells within that church; something much needed these days. As prayers are being whispered, the sun paints beautiful images on the stained-glass windows, adding more scenery to an already breathtaking view. Amidst the echoes of the past and the promise of tomorrow, I find myself humbled by the resilience of a city that refuses to be defined by its scars.
Bearing witness to a century of the city's rich history, Achrafieh is a neighbourhood of old-world elegance with the heart of a young soul hungry for life, art, love and chaos. Triple-arched windows, elderly women taping their carpets on balconies, men lost in intense tawle games by the pavement, and strangers turning into friends over impromptu chats. Restaurants bustle as they get ready to welcome guests, glasses clink to the rhythm of youthful laughter, and music weaves its way through the streets.
Achrafieh speaks in colour, through its repainted buildings, vintage cars parked next to busy coffee shops, modern fashion boutiques, or through its sweet and kind locals who are always eager to strike a conversation with strangers. It is a neighbourhood that holds diversity within each street. Sassine Square is the heart of Beirut's political, social and commercial life, home to the historic Saint Nicholas Street. Every early June, these very stairs host the Cabriolet Film Festival, where the balconies of the surrounding buildings embrace you as you watch a curation of films with stories of a city that vibrates with love, warmth, passion and honesty.
Here, you cannot miss the majestic Sursock Museum, Beirut's modern artistic pulse, a platform for dialogue and cultural exploration. It is a sanctuary of art, housing a permanent collection that echoes the voices of Lebanese and international artists across diverse styles and movements. From traditional Lebanese folk art to avant-garde contemporary pieces, the museum offers a captivating glimpse into the region's artistic tapestry.
The museum, once graced with tinted windows, was shattered by the unspeakable August 4th, 2020 explosion. Yet, it emerged from the rubble, rebuilt and resilient. I imagine when locals visit, they carry with them a bittersweet nostalgia, tracing their fingers over the unbroken glass—a symbol of both past devastation and future resilience, a testament to their enduring hope amidst adversity.
As one of Beirut's oldest and most charming neighbourhoods, Achrafieh's history predates many cities by thousands of years, with its lively streets and captivating sea views that have enchanted visitors for centuries. Lebanese cuisine can be experienced in top-notch restaurants that serve exquisite dishes, which both locals and internationals eagerly line up to savour. Le Chef is one of the ultimate destinations for an authentic Lebanese gastronomic experience. Ever since Russell Crowe visited and praised Le Chef, it has become a magnet for food enthusiasts. Guests are welcomed with such warmth and affection that they instantly feel at home.
Ritage Garden, an urban oasis in the heart of Achrafieh, is another Mediterranean haven brimming with vibrant aromas, heartfelt passion and meticulous craftsmanship. This urban sanctuary, set in the lively heart of the city, enchants with its whimsical ambience and a thoughtfully crafted all-day menu. Here, diners can relish a unique al fresco experience that celebrates the Mediterranean's finest ingredients and seasonal delights.
One of my absolute favourite spots in Beirut is undeniably Gemmayzeh Street. Every time I step into this vibrant neighbourhood, whether it is during the day or night, I am smothered by its insatiable hunger for life and youthful energy.And it is all because of its people - those with outgoing personalities, the art fanatics, the conversationalists, the listeners, the observers, the curious, the photographers, the writers, the food lovers, the drink experts; each person has their own shtick. It buzzes with life, a hotspot for both locals and foreigners.
Some of the neighbourhood's houses are abandoned yet preserved for their arched windows, which reflect Beirut's charm. One can step into different realms within the same neighbourhood, which I find quite interesting. One, for example, can sip on expertly crafted cocktails at trendy bars like Miyyao, Mondays Off, Demo, Flav, 16MM and Lost, to name a few, or have a jazzy night at Aaliya’s Books, a London-inspired bar and café that exudes a very cozy vibe akin to being at home. Stroll a bit further, and you will find yourself on the famed Mar Mikhael Street. This is where the night truly comes alive—the bar street is known for its clinking glasses, vibrant music, infectious laughter and thriving local businesses. Each visit to Gemmayzeh and its neighbouring streets is a dive into the pulsating heart of Beirut, an experience brimming with creativity, connection and unforgettable moments.
We end our night in the best way possible, a rooftop venue with one of the most eclectic music tracks. As you dance to the beat and stomp your feet, you can see airplanes pass overhead, heading to the other side of the world. You feel transported yet grounded, floating yet sunken in the deep. Maybe that feeling is Beirut in Breathers, where every moment catches your breath.
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